The beautiful city of Asheville, nestled in the heart of North Carolina, may not be the first place that springs to mind when you think of culinary destinations. However, it’s swiftly earning a reputation as a vibrant hotspot for Appalachian cuisine. Erica Locklear Abrams, a professor at the University of North Carolina Asheville, has been a fervent advocate for celebrating the diverse and culturally rich culinary heritage of the region. According to her, the food and the people behind it defy stereotypes, and there’s a treasure trove of Appalachian cuisine waiting to be discovered.
The culinary scene in Asheville is as diverse and breathtaking as the surrounding landscapes. From acclaimed chefs leading the charge in reviving traditional dishes to farm-focused eateries and celebrations of original Appalachian fare, there’s something to captivate every palate. Chef John Fleer, a prominent figure in championing Appalachian cooking, tantalizes diners with local cuisine at Rhubarb, celebrating the unique indigenous ingredients of the region. This includes delectable dishes like country ham and greens, stone-ground grits, and hush puppies. Chef Ashleigh Shanti weaves childhood memories of foraging ramps with her grandmother into her recipes, infusing an authentic touch to her cooking. Meanwhile, chef Katie Button’s menu at Cúrate features Spanish tapas made with locally sourced ingredients, including ramps served in a romesco sauce. And then there’s the sweet and luscious sorghum, a staple in many Asheville dishes, made from a plant brought to the United States from Africa.
Asheville’s farm-focused chefs have close alliances with local growers, sourcing fresh produce from markets such as Asheville City Market and North Asheville Tailgate Market. The Montgomery Sky Farm in the Turkey Creek community offers visitors a chance to tour their 50-acre farm and relish a bespoke picnic surrounded by Highland cattle, blacknose sheep, pigs, and goats. The Utopian Seed Project, a nonprofit committed to nurturing regional biodiversity, hosts exquisite Trial to Table dinners that shine a spotlight on local chefs crafting culinary delights with the project’s produce.
Let’s take a moment to pay homage to the original Appalachian cuisine influenced by the Cherokee people, who cultivated the “three sisters” (corn, beans, and squash) in the mountains. Traditional staples like leather britches, wide beans preserved by stringing on thread and hung to dry, can still be found in some locations. Benne on Eagle, a beacon of culinary tradition in the historically Black district known as The Block, showcases dishes with ingredients like okra, collard greens, red pepper jelly, and benne, a sesame-like seed.
In conclusion, the Appalachian food on offer in Asheville is more intricate and diverse than many could imagine. With chefs breathing new life into traditional recipes and ingredients, there’s no better time to immerse yourself in the unique and flavorful world of Appalachian cuisine. Whether you’re a passionate food aficionado or simply seeking an unforgettable dining experience, Asheville promises something extraordinary for every culinary adventure.